Introduction:
A textile fiber is an individual, fine, hair-like substance, which forms the fundamental element of textile yarn and fabric. Fibers are either found in nature or made by man. Natural fibers are obtained from plants, animals and minerals, while man-made fibers are produced either purely chemically (synthetic fibers) or by modifying natural fibers by chemical means (regenerated fibers). In this article I will explain characteristics and uses of different textile fibers.
Important Characteristics and Major Uses of Textile Fibers:
Each type of fibre has unique characteristics that influence its uses in the textile industry. Here’s an overview:
Cotton Fiber:
Cotton is defined as white fibrous substance covering seeds harvested from Cotton Plant. It is the seed hair of the plant of the genus Gossypium. Cotton is classified as natural, cellulose, seed, mono-celluloar, staple fiber. Different kinds and types of cotton are grown in various parts of the world. The main producing countries of cotton are the United States, Brazil, Egypt, India, Pakistan, China, Uzbekistan, Mexico and Turkey; the first six produce 80 per cent of the world’s cotton.
Characteristics:
- Comfortable
- Soft hand
- Absorbent
- Good colour retention, prints well
- Machine-washable, dry-cleanable
- Good strength
- Drapes well
- Easy to handle and sew
Uses:
- Apparel: Wide range of wearing apparel: blouses, shirts, dresses, childrenswear, activewear, separates, swimwear, suits, jackets, skirts, pants, sweaters, hosiery, neckwear.
- Home Fashion: Curtains, draperies, bedspreads, comforters, throws, sheets, towels, table cloths, table mats, napkins.
Silk Fiber:
Silk is a continuous strand of protein filament cemented together forming the cocoon of the silkworm Bombyx mori. It is the only natural fiber that occurs in the form of a fine continuous filament. Silk is not a hair fiber like wool. Silk has excellent drape, lustre and luxurious hand. Silk is at the luxury end of the market because it is expensive.
Characteristics:
- Soft or crisp hand
- Luxurious
- Drapes and tailors well
- Thinnest of all natural fibers
- Dyes and prints well
- Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
- Little problem with static, no pilling problem
- Only fair abrasion resistance
- Poor resistance to prolonged exposure to sunlight
Uses:
- Apparel: Dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, pants, pants, scarves, and ties.
- Home Fashion: Curtains, draperies, upholstery.
Wool Fiber:
Wool is the fiber from the fleece of sheep. It is a natural, protein, multicellular, staple fiber. Wool is an animal fiber obtained by shearing the fibrous covering of sheep and is produced in almost all parts of the world. Wool in felted state was probably the oldest fiber known to man. Wool fiber has a natural crimp due to its unique chemical and physical structure. This causes the fiber to bend and turn, giving wool an inherent three dimensional crimp. Because it is naturally elastic and resilient, wool imparts to all products that are made from it, many unique properties: rapid wrinkle recovery, durability, bulk, loft, warmth, and resistance to abrasion.
Characteristics:
- Comfortable
- Luxurious, soft hand
- Versatile
- Lightweight
- Good insulator
- Washable
- Wrinkle-resistant
- Absorbent
- Easy to dye
Uses:
- Apparel: Sweaters, dresses, coats, suits, jackets, pants, skirts, children’s wear, loungewear, blouses, shirts, hosiery, and scarves.
- Home Fashion: Carpets, draperies, upholstery, blankets.
Spandex Fiber:
Elastanes are elastomeric fibers that are known by their trade names; usually Lycra in Europe and Spandex in the United States. They are segmented polyurethanes that are either melt or solvent extruded fibers after which they are either wet or chemical spun. The fibers are able to stretch up to seven times their length with an immediate full recovery to their original state without relying on being a crimped or coiled fiber.
Characteristics:
- Lightweight
- Can be stretched over 500% without breaking
- Able to be stretched repetitively and still recover original length
- Abrasion resistant
- Stronger, more durable than rubber
- Soft, smooth and supple
- Resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents
- No static or pilling problems
Uses:
- Apparel: Articles where stretch is desired: athletic apparel, bathing suits, foundation garments, ski pants, slacks, hosiery, socks, belts.
Linen Fiber:
Linen is a bast fiber. It is the oldest documented fiber, and some evidence dates as far back as 6,000 BC. A cellulose fiber that comes from the flax plant and gains the name Linen once the fibers have been through the preparation process. It is one of the strongest fibers, and it is considered luxurious – requiring care during each stage of production, which is a costly process.
Characteristics:
- Comfortable
- Good strength, twice as strong as cotton
- Hand-washable or dry-cleanable
- Crisp hand
- Tailors well
- Absorbent
- Dyes and prints well
- Lightweight to heavyweight
- No static or pilling problems
- Fair abrasion resistant
Uses:
- Apparel: Dresses, suits, separates, skirts, jackets, pants, blouses, shirts, childrenswear.
- Home Fashion: Curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets, dish towels.
Mohair Fiber:
Mohair is the hair of the angora goat, which is a smooth, strong and resilient fiber. The fibers can be up to 30cm in length giving a slight sheen to the fabrics. It does not attract or hold dirt particles. It absorbs dye evenly and permanently. Its fine silk-like luster permits interesting decorative effects. It is more uniform in diameter than wool fiber and, therefore, does not shrink or felt as readily as wool.
Characteristics:
- Long, lustrous, strong fiber
- Luxurious
- Soft hand
- Most resilient natural textile fiber
- Lightweight, warms, good insulator
- Dyes well, brilliant colours
- Non-crush, -mat and -pill qualities.
- Resists fading
Uses:
- Apparel: Coats, suits, dresses, sweaters, accessories, loungewear, and socks.
- Home Fashion: Blankets, throws, upholstery, draperies, carpets rugs.
Rayon Fiber:
Rayon is a regenerated cellulosic fiber and cellulose is the raw material for producing this fiber. It is obtained by the process viscose, was discovered in 1891, and the first commercial production was undertaken in 1905 by Courtaulds. It is made from cotton linters or wood pulp, usually obtained from spruce and pine trees. Rayon became known as viscose in the 1990s when the material became linked to the production process, like many other man-made fibers. The main countries that produce viscose are Italy, Austria, Germany, the United States, Brazil and India.
Characteristics:
- Soft and comfortable
- Drapes well
- Highly absorbent
- Dyes and prints well
- No static, no pilling problems
- Fabric can shrink appreciably if washing dry clean only rayon
- Washable or dry cleanable. Read the label
Uses:
- Apparel: Blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, millinery, slacks, sportshirts, sportswear, suits, ties, work clothes
- Home Fashion: Bedspreads, blankets, curtains, draperies, sheets, slipcovers, tablecloths, upholstery.
Lyocell Fiber:
Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fiber made by a newly invented process which causes less effluent problems and less pollution than the process of making viscose rayon. Lyocell has very good properties, such as high tenacity and low elongation. It has a high moisture regain of 11.5% and at the same time retains tenacity well when wet. The drawback of lyocell is that the fiber can split quite easily. Lyocell, modal and polynosic rayon have very similar properties, so their end uses are also similar.
Characteristics:
- Excellent strength
- Washable
- Shrink- and wrinkle-resistant
- Soft hand
- Excellent drape
- Absorbent
- Dyes and prints well
Uses:
- Apparel: Dresses, suits sportswear, pants, jackets, blouses, and skirts.
Acetate Fiber:
Acetate is a regenerated man-made fiber made from acetylation of cellulose by acetic acid. The cellulose source is similar to viscose rayon, but it differs greatly in chemical nature because the acetylation of the cellulose gives it a hydrophobic character. Acetate fiber is not very absorbent and, in fact, it is one of the weakest textile fibers, weaker than any rayon. The raw material for the production of acetate fibers is also cellulose, but they are composed of cellulose ester.
Characteristics:
- Luxurious appearance
- Crisp or soft hand
- Wide range of colours; dyes and prints well
- Excellent drapeability and softness
- Shrink, moth, and mildew resistant
- Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast drying
- No pilling problem, little static problem
- Most acetate garments require dry-cleaning
Uses:
- Apparel: Blouses, dresses, linings, special occasion apparel,
- Home Fashion: Draperies, upholstery, curtains, bedspreads
Triacetate Fiber:
Triacetate fibre is a type of synthetic fibre made from cellulose, which is derived from wood pulp. It is a variation of acetate fibre. Triacetate has greater resistance to sunlight than acetate. Triacetate has a much better recovery rate. An important property of triacetate fibers is the ability to undergo structural changes under the influence of heat.
Characteristics:
- Luxurious hand
- Excellent drapeability
- Resilient
- Excellent pleat retention
- Washable or dry-cleanable
- No pilling problem
- Can have static problem
Uses:
- Apparel: Dresses, skirts, sportswear, robes, particularly where pleat retention is important.
Acrylic Fiber:
Acrylic is formed from a liquid called acrylonitrile. The fibers have a soft, warm handle and are well-suited to the production of high bulk yarns. Acrylic fibers have replaced wool in many major applications, specially in hand knitting and hosiery garments.
Characteristics:
- Light-weight, soft, warm for winter wearing
- Dyes to bright colours with excellent fastness
- Outstanding wickability
- Machine washable, quick drying
- Resilient; retains shape; resists shrinkage, & wrinkles
- Flexible aesthetics for wool-like, cotton-like or blended appearance
- Excellent pleat retention
- Resistant to moths, oil and chemicals
- Superior resistance to sunlight degradation
- Static and pilling can be a problem
Uses:
- Apparel: Sweaters, socks, fleece, circular knit apparel, sportswear, childrenswear
- Home Fashion: Blankets, throws, upholstery, awnings, outdoor furniture, rugs/floor coverings
Modacrylic Fiber:
Modacrylics are modified acrylic fibers that contain acrylonitrile and modifying polymers. Modacrylic fibers fall under the category of polyacrylonitrile fibers and generally contain less than 85% by weight of acrylonitrile. Modacrylic fibers are easy to dye. They are spun in 100% pure form as well as in blends with wool, cotton, rayon, nylon, and polyester fibers. Modacrylic fibers became important for their high flame resistance. They are used typically in home furnishings where flame resistance is required.
Characteristics:
- Soft
- Resilient
- Abrasion- and flame-resistant
- Quick-drying
- Resists acids and alkalis
- Retains shape
Uses:
- Apparel: Deep pile coats, trims, linings, simulated fur, wigs and hairpieces
- Home Fashion: Awnings, blankets. Carpets, flame resistant draperies and curtains, scatter rugs.
Aramid Fiber:
Aramids are aromatic polyamide variants. They were first brought to the market by DuPont in the early 1960s. The aramids are the newest class of fibers which are chemically modified polyamides. Aramids are five times stronger than steel fiber by weight, and they have a high resistance to heat. The best known brand names are Kevlar and Nomex; both are the products of dupont company of USA.
Characteristics:
- Does not melt
- Highly flame-resistant
- High strength
- High resistance to stretch
- Maintains its shape and form at high temperatures
Uses:
- Apparel: Protective clothing, military helmets, protective vests
- Others: Hot-gas filtration fabrics, structural composites for aircraft and boats, sailcloth, tires, ropes and cables, mechanical rubber goods, marine and sporting goods.
Microfibers:
A microfiber is a fiber that has a denier count of less than one. Microfibers play an important part in the development of new textiles. Microfibers are easy to take care of. A microfiber helps one maintain an even body temperature in both hot and cold conditions, which increases the comfort of the wearer.
Fabrics constructed from microfibers are noted for their aesthetic appeal. They have a soft, luxurious handle and they possess good drape. Both these properties arise from the lower bending stiffness of microfibers, in turn due to the lower filament thickness. In addition, yarns constructed from microfibers generally possess higher tenacities, and often lower elongations to break, than those with equivalent standard fibers. Greater alignment of the polymer chains is achieved during the formation of microfibers.
Microfibers can also be exploited in the construction of waterproof, breathable fabrics.
Characteristics:
- Ultra fine (less than 1.0 dpf), finer than the most delicate silk
- Extremely drapeable
- Very soft, luxurious hand with a silken or suede touch
- Washable, dry cleanable
- Shrink-resistant
- High strength (except Rayon)
- Excellent pleat retention
- Insulates well against wind, rain and cold
Uses:
- Apparel: Hosiery, blouses, dresses, separates, sportswear, ties, scarves, menswear, intimate apparel, activewear, swimwear, outerwear, rainwear.
- Home Fashion: Curtains, draperies, upholstery, sheets, towels, and blankets.
Nylon Fiber:
Nylon is a man-made synthetic polymer, polyamide filament or staple fiber. It is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of amide linkages are attached to two aromatic rings. Nylon is produced in both regular and high-tenacity strengths. Although it is one of the lightest textile fibers, it is also one of the strongest.
Characteristics:
- Lightweight
- Exceptional strength
- Good drapeability
- Abrasion resistant
- Easy to wash
- Resists shrinkage and wrinkling resilient, pleat retentive
- Fast drying, low moisture absorbency
- Can be pre-coloured or dyed in a wide range of colours
- Resistant to damage from oil and many chemicals
- Static and pilling can be a problem
- Poor resistance to continuous sunlight
Uses:
- Apparel: Swimwear, activewear, intimate apparel, foundation garments, hosiery, blouses, dresses, sportswear, pants, jackets, skirts, raincoats, ski and snow apparel, windbreakers, childrenswear.
- Home Fashion: Carpets, rugs, curtains, upholstery, draperies, bedspreads
- Other: Luggage, back packets, life vests, umbrellas, sleeping bags, tents.
Polyester Fiber:
Polyester fiber is a man-made synthetic fiber which is a long-chain polymer produced from elements derived from coal, air, water and petroleum. Polyester fiber is chemically composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, including but not restricted to substituted terephthalic units and para-substituted hydroxybenzoate units. There are two main varieties of polyester: polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and poly-1,4-cychlohexylene-dimethylene terephthalate (PCDT). PET is the most common type of polyester.
Characteristics:
- Strong
- Crisp, soft hand
- Resistant to stretching and shrinkage
- Washable or dry-cleanable
- Quick drying
- Resilient, wrinkle resistant, excellent pleat retention (if heat set)
- Abrasion resistant
- Resistant to most chemicals
- Because of its low absorbency, stain removal can be a problem
- Static and pilling problems
Uses:
- Apparel: Essential every form of clothing, dresses, blouses, jackets, separates, sportswear, suits, shirts, pants, rainwear, lingerie, childrenswear
- Home Fashion: Curtains, draperies, floor coverings, fiber fill, upholstery, and bedding.
Polyolefin Fiber:
Polyolefin is a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is any longchain synthetic polyethylene, polypropylene, or other olefin unit, except amorphous (noncrystalline) polyolefins. It is a very lightweight fiber that possesses very good strength and abrasion resistance. It possesses a unique combination of low moisture absorbency and exceptional wicking of water, which are advantages in providing comfortable apparel in certain circumstances. Polyolefin is almost completely hydrophobic.
Characteristics:
- Lightweight, lightest fiber, it floats
- Strong
- Abrasion resistant, resilient
- Stain-, static-, sunlight-, and odor-resistant
- High insulation characteristics
- Resists deterioration from chemicals, mildew, perspiration, rot and weather
- Fast drying
- High wickability
- Colour fast, because colours are incorporated during fiber forming stage
- Spills can be readily wiped up
- Static and pilling can be a problem
- Ironing, washing and drying need to be done at low temperature
- Non-allergenic
Uses:
- Apparel: Activewear, sportswear, jeans, socks, underwear, lining fabrics.
- Home Fashion: Indoor and outdoor carpets, carpet backing, upholstery, wall coverings, furniture and bedding construction fabrics.
References:
- Textile Handbook by The Hong Kong Cotton Spinners Association
- A Novel Green Treatment for Textiles: Plasma Treatment as a Sustainable Technology By Chi-wai Kan
- Textile Raw Materials By Ajay Jindal and Rakesh Jindal
- Fibres to Fabrics by Bev Ashford
- Textile Engineering – An Introduction Edited by Yasir Nawab