Sewing Thread Consumption:
The quantity of thread that will be required for sewing a garment is called sewing thread consumption for that garment. It is generally expressed in length. To find out the consumption of thread for production of garment is very much important, because for determination of costing of garments, need to know or to find out the consumption of thread.
The sewing thread consumption is dependent on a number of factors, such as:
- Thickness of fabrics
- Plies of fabrics to be sewn
- Stitch type
- Stitch density
- Width of seam
- Garments size
- Design of the garments
- Whether automatic thread cutting system is available in the sewing machine
- Skillness of operators
- Quality of thread
The systems of finding out the quality of thread for each unit of length that for sewing of each inch or centimeter are shown below with diagram:
Stitch type-101 (single needle chain stitch)
This is a specific stitch type of stitch class-1000, where the sewing is done by only one thread, no bobbin or looper thread is required. The unit length that means the required inches of thread for sewing an inch is described with the help of the below diagram:
- Fig: Stitch type-101
The consumption of thread for a stitch = 3 x stitch length + 2 x thickness
For a seam of an inch C = (3N +2T) x the number of stitches per inch
C = (3N + 2T) S
C = 3 + 2TS To keep it in mind (NxS = 1)
Where,
N = The length of a stitch
T = Thickness of fabric/seam
S = The number of stitches per inch
C = Consumption of thread
The consumption of thread for Stitch type-101, C = 3 + 2TS.
Using this formula and finding out the consumption of thread for fabric or the thickness of seam and stitch density, is shown as a chart (Chart no-D/1). If the stitch type is 101, then thread consumption can be known directly from the chart, but the stitch density and thickness of seam need to be known.
Chart no-D/1
Thread consumption (in inch) for each inch of a seam for stitch type-101
Stitch type-301 (Single needle lockstitch)
It is a specific stitch under stitch class-300 which is known as lockstitch. Two threads are required for making of this type of stitches, one is called the needle thread and the other is called the bobbin thread or under thread. For making a seam of one inch with stitch type-301, how much inches of thread will be required is explained with the below diagram:
- Fig: Stitch type-301
Thread consumption for a stitch = 2 x stitch length + 2 x thickness
= 2N + 2T
Thread consumption for a seam of one inch = (2N + 2T) x stitch dencity
C = (2N + 2T) x S
C = 2 + 2TS (as N x S = 1)
Where,
N = Length of each stitch
T = Thickness of fabric or seam
S = Stitch density per inch
C = Thread consumption for each inch of seam
Therefore, it is found that in case of Stitch type-301, the thread consumption for each inch of a seam, C = 2 + 2TS. Using this formula in case of stitch type-301, a chart (Chart no-D/2) of thread consumption is made from where the thread consumption for each inch will be got directly.
Chart no-D/2
Thread consumption (in inch) for each inch of a seam for stitch type-301
Stitch type-401 (Single needle chain stitch)
This is a stitch type under stitch class-400. Two threads are required for making of this type of stitches, one is called the needle thread and the other is called the looper thread. For making a seam of one inch with stitch type-401, how much inches of thread will be required is explained with the below diagram:
- Fig: Stitch type-401
Thread consumption for a stitch = 4 x stitch length + 2 x thickness
= 4N + 2T
Thread consumption for a seam of one inch = (4N + 2T) x stitch density
C = (4N + 2T) x S
C = 4 + 2TS (as N x S = 1)
Where,
C = Thread consumption for each inch of seam
N = Length of each stitch
T = Thickness of fabric or seam
S = Stitch density per inch
Therefore, it is found that in case of stitch type-401, the thread consumption for each inch of a seam, C = 4 + 2TS.
Using this formula. In case of stitch type-401, a chart (Chart no. D/3) of thread consumption is made from where the thread consumption for each inch will be got directly.
Chart No. D/3
Thread consumption (in inch) for each inch of a seam for stitch type-401
Stitch type-504 (Three thread over edge stitch)
This is a type of stitch under stitch class-500. Three threads are required for making of this type of stitches, one is called the needle thread and the other two are called the looper thread. For making a seam of one inch with stitch type-504, how much inches of thread will be required is explained with the below diagram:
- Fig: Stitch type-504
Thread consumption for one stitch = 3 x stitch length + 4 x width + 4 thickness
= 3 N + 4W + 4T
Consumption of thread for a seam of one inch
= (3N + 4W + 4T) x stitch density
= (3N + 4W + 4T) x S
C = 3 + 4 WS + 4TS
Where,
C = Thread consumption for each inch of a seam
N = Length of each stitch
W = Seam width
T = Thickness of fabric or of seam
S = The number of stitches per inch
Therefore, it is found that in case of stitch type-504, thread consumption for each inch of a seam, C = 3 + 4WS + 4TS.
Using this formula, for the difference of thickness of seams and stitches, the width of stitch ¼”, a chart (Chart no-D/4) is prepared, from where the consumption of thread in case of seams of ¼” width, under stitch type-504, can directly be obtained.
Chart no-D/4
Thread consumption (in inch) for making of each inch of a seam for stitch type-504 (Seam width = ¼”)